The True Essence of Traditional Chowder: History, Types, & My Recipe
Introduction:
Chances are you've been saying the word "chowder" without really knowing what it means. You might think you have a conceptual idea, but trust me, you're likely mistaken. This kind of confusion often surrounds culinary terms like "bisque," "confit," and even the nostalgic term from the late '90s and early 2000s, "coulis." Let's dive into what truly defines a chowder.
History of Chowder:
The name "chowder" is believed to derive from the French cooking vessel called a "chaudière." This type of pot or cauldron was commonly found on European fishing vessels, where fishermen would prepare a hearty stew from salted fish or their daily catch, using the ingredients that were available. An interesting anecdote suggests that a New York writer, unfamiliar with the flour-thickened broths of early chowders, might have mistaken the whiteness for milk, thereby popularizing the creamy version. While this story leans more towards culinary lore than historical fact, it highlights the evolution of chowder.
Types of Chowder:
The distinction between New England's creamy clam chowder and Manhattan's tomato-based version became particularly pronounced in the 1930s. The publication of a Manhattan clam chowder recipe in the 1934 cookbook "Soups and Sauces" by Virginia Elliot and Robert Jones highlighted these regional differences and sparked a culinary rivalry that endures to this day. The state of Maine may still have a law on its books making it illegal to serve Manhattan clam chowder within its borders. This cultural debate further solidified New England clam chowder's identity as a rich, milk-based stew.
Recipe
Ingredients:
1 lb firm white fish fillets (such as cod, haddock, or halibut), cut into bite-sized pieces
4 slices bacon, chopped
1/4 cup white wine
1 onion, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
2 cups potatoes, peeled and diced
2 cups fish broth or milk
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon thyme
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup heavy cream
Fresh parsley, chopped
Optional: dash of nutmeg, dash of cayenne
Method:
In a large pot or chaudière, place the white wine and bacon. Turn the heat on to medium-high and stir the bacon so that it is generously coated with the wine.
As the white wine reduces, the bacon will start to brown. It is key to let the bacon brown and let the flavor develop on the bottom of your pot.
Remove bacon from the pot, leaving the renderings behind.
Add onion and celery, letting them stand for about five minutes to release their flavor.
Turn the heat back on and sweat the celery and onion with half of the fresh thyme. Don’t forget to taste and season.
Once the onions are translucent, add diced potato and bay leaf. Cook until the potatoes start to soften. Add a bit more white wine if necessary, but be careful not to add too much as it can cause the milk to curdle. Don’t forget to taste and season.
Add fish stock or milk and bring to a simmer, making sure not to boil. Don’t forget to taste and season.
Once the potatoes are soft, reduce the heat and add the fish, ensuring not to overcook it. Don’t forget to taste and season.
Once the fish is cooked, add bacon, parsley, and thyme. Let the flavors incorporate and serve. Don’t forget to taste and season.
Conclusion:
The evolution of New England clam chowder, from its early water-based roots to its creamy modern form, reflects not only changes in available ingredients but also historical practices and regional storytelling. The creamy chowder we know today likely evolved due to the availability of dairy in the New England region and the desire for a richer, more luxurious stew. Each bowl of chowder tells a story, from the early European settlers adapting their recipes to the New World ingredients, to the bustling New England markets where fresh seafood was abundant, and finally to modern kitchens where chowder has become a symbol of comfort and tradition.
So next time you enjoy a steaming bowl of chowder, whether it's creamy New England or tomato-rich Manhattan, remember that you're not just tasting a stew. You're savoring a piece of history, a blend of cultures, and a story that has simmered through the centuries.
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